Andalucía practically untouched

Originally published August 27, 2020. Updated April, 2023

All images are courtesy of the Spain Less Traveled team, unless otherwise stated.

Many parts of Andalucía, the south of Spain, appear on just about every highlights of Spain travel itinerary.

But unlike the region’s more popular places like Granada, Sevilla, Córdoba, and Málaga province, very few people from overseas make it to Almería Spain, in the southeast corner of Andalucía.

But this overlooked province in Andalucía has so much to offer travelers.

Rural by nature, Almería is notorious for its mar de plástico (sea of plastic) which are endless rows of greenhouses, providing food for all Europe, and some of the stapes for the best food in Spain.

But look beyond that and see how beautiful and special Almería Spain really is! Along with Jaén and Huelva provinces, the entire province truly is Southern Spain off the beaten path.

We here at Spain Less Traveled love this gem of a province and want to help work Almería into your dream Spain travel itinerary!

But first, here are some of our favorite Almería Spain spots!

Where is Almeria Spain?

Almería Spain is located in the eastern part of Andalucía, the South of Spain, bordering the Mediterranean sea, Granada province in Andalucía as well as the Murcia region to the north.

Top picks for things to do in Almeria Spain

Almería Spain: the region’s capital

Underrated and often completely overlooked, Almería city might not have the beauty of Granada or the life of Málaga. But if you’re willing to see beyond the dusty edges, the regional capital has a lot to offer visitors.

For starters the tapas scene in Almería Spain really one ups its neighbor, Granada’s world-famous tapas scene because in Almería you can choose a free tapa. In Granada it’s whatever they give you, but here they give you a tapas menu, and with every drink order, you get to select a free tapa. This is perfect for pickier eaters or those with dietary restrictions who want to discover Spain’s tapas scene.

The cathedral of Almería was built on the site of a former mosque that was destroyed during an earthquake. Though built in the Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles, some Moorish influences can be seen.

By the port, you can find a Monument to Tolerance/memorial for those from Almería murdered at Mauthausen concentration camp. Spain did not have a large Jewish population by the time of the Holocaust, and as such most of those murdered were anti-Francoists captured by the nazis.

If you’re a museum lover, you’ll love Almería’s selection of museums. There is an art museum, an archeology museum, and a gallery dedicated to world-class photography.

But Almería’s main draw is the Alcazaba, a fortress built by the Moors in the 1000s that looms above the city. Almería’s Alcazaba was said to be one of the largest in Spain at that time. Today, very little of the original construction remains, but you can still view part of the original walls, which are still in tact. Devote a few hours to properly explore the Alcazaba, and even more if you are interested in Moorish architecture.

Visit Almería and you will discover why it is one of our favorite cities in Spain!

The undeveloped Mediterranean coastline in Cabo de Gata

Unfortunately, a lot of Spain’s Mediterranean coast is built up, especially in Southern Spain. But Almería province is home to Cabo de Gata Nature Park, Andalucía’s largest protected coastal area. It’s remote and wild. And if you dream of Mediterranean beaches seemingly to yourself, this is where to find them.

The area has some of Spain’s least built up beaches on the Mediterranean Coast

The most famous beach is Playa de los Genoveses. Further down is Playa de Mónsul. A bit further afield, other good bets are the beaches of Playa de Playazo, Las Negras, and the small beaches near the fishing village of La Isleta del Moro. Playa de las Salinas is right across from the salt flats, and if you get lucky you may see some flamingos there. And Playa El Playazo is in the shadow of castle ruins.

The area also offers a lot of opportunities for hiking and other water sports.

It’s a vast area and nature lovers can easily spend a few days exploring the park. You can also visit the site of a former gold mine if you’re in to those kinds of things.

The views from the faro (lighthouse), at the tip of the cape, are magnificent.

Just on the edge of the park, the cute town of Níjar, on the official list of pueblos más bonitos en España (most beautiful villages in Spain) is a good base for exploring the area.

Mojácar (Pueblo and Playa)

Mojácar pueblo can be seen from a distance. This hillside town looks like a whitewashed multi-layered maze plunging off the hill its located on.

The town itself is charming albeit a bit touristy (touristy for Almería, it’s important to make that distinction). As to be expected since like Níjar, it’s also on the official list of pueblos más bonitos en España.

Once practically abandoned, in the 1960s the town’s smart mayor started luring artists and other creatives to Mojácar. Its location and views being the major selling points. To this day, there are galleries as well as many bars and restaurants. Wander around the pueblo in the morning hours with your camera, when its streets are emptier.

On top of the town sits the castle ruins, with a beautiful mirador. It’s worth the short walk all the way to the top, especially at sunrise.

A few kilometers below the town is Mojácar Playa, a long stretch of sandy Mediterranean beaches. During July and August, these can get crowded, but they tend to be much more chill than other Andaluz beaches during off-season. A bus connects the pueblo and playa, but you can also walk.

Nearby in Vera is one of Europe’s largest nudist beaches, if that’s your thing. Hey, this is Spain after all!

Alpujarra Almeriense

Almería province shares the Alpujarras, the foothills on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada range with Granada. But the Alpujarra Almeriense is nothing like the Alpujarra Granadina.

If you have been to Granada’s Alpujarra, you will notice many differences on the Almería side. While the Granada side of the Alpujarra tends to be greener, the Almería side is closer to the Tabernas Desert, making it much more arid.

Then there are the towns themselves. While the towns in the Alpujarra Granadina are a favorite of day trippers from Granada, travelers between Granada and the coast/Málaga, and foreigners who live there, the Almeria side is very Spanish and local.

These towns don’t see much tourism, even from domestic visitors, and especially not from international visitors. That keeps them hidden and unique. A few of note are:

Laujar de Andarax, the capital of the Alpujarra Almeriense. Legend has it that Boadbil, the last Moorish sultan of Granada spent some time there before he was exiled from Spain.

Worth the detour deeper into the mountains, Ohanes is a beautiful whitewashed village. This small village specializes in producing rosado wine (rosé).

Padules is the starting place for many hikes and nature walks. Make sure to pack water shoes as part of the hikes are through the area’s natural canals.

Fóndon is also worth a stop for a truly local vibe.

And finally, Canjáyar is a great destination for those who embrace rural tourism. With casa rurales, it is a good base for those who don’t want to stay in the larger village of Laujar de Andarax.

Prepared to be surprised and blown away by Almería Spain’s Alpujarra range, especially if you spent time in Granada’s Alpujarra!

Los-Vélez: remote Almería

North in the province of Almería Spain, in a remote corner, very close to the border with Murcia, the towns of Los Vélez in the Sierra de Maria mountains, are well worth the detour.

The Los Vélez area also consists of three small villages: Vélez-Rubio, Vélez-Blanco, and María.

Vélez-Rubio is the largest of the three towns and has a huge baroque style church.

But the most stunning and interesting of the three is Vélez-Blanco. High above the valley, this whitewashed town a castle watching over it. But only the exterior is still there. The interior was sold to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. The views from the castle grounds are fantastic of both the town and the dramatic surroundings.

And if you are looking for crisp mountain air, a hike in the Sierra de Maria, just outside of the town Maria, is a secluded nature park. There are loads opportunities for hiking & other outdoor activities. Outside of high season, you will most likely have the trails to yourself. Keep an eye out for foxes, mountain goats, and birdlife.

The region is also known for its prehistoric cave paintings (Cueva de los Letreros). The symbol of Almería Spain, the indalo, is one of the drawings in the cave, making this area of historical significance to the entire province. You will find images of the indalo all over the province, but the original is here!

Almeria Spain has Europe’s only desert

The Tabernas Desert is Europe’s only desert and it is located in Almería Spain. It’s a small desert area that packs a major punch. Visitors can go on hikes in the desert admiring the scenery (obviously bring lots of water).

And the area brings the Wild West in North America to Spain.  Spain has its own version too, and it’s in Tabernas.  Many Western-style movies were filmed here. There are even theme parks that bring Almería’s movie industry to life, modeled after the US West.

 Films set in Arabian times have also been filmed here. And in the town of Tabernas, you can even hike up to the Moorish castle ruins.  

Explore a crystal cave in Almería Spain

Want to walk through a crystal cave to see a giant geode? That is also possible in Almería, in the town of Pulpí.

The area had always been mining area for iron and silver. But in 1999 geologists from Madrid discovered a huge hollow rock covered in crystals.

It wasn’t until recently that a very limited number of visitors per day could visit this giant geode of Pulpí as part of a guided tour. You will need to wear close-toe shoes and will be given safety equipment which you are required to use. Advanced reservations are required.

Crystal caves too? It is true that Almería Spain really has it all!

Tempted by Almería Spain?

But theres even more! With 300+ days of sunshine a year and fairly warm temperatures year round, the chances that the weather will be pleasant during your visit are good!

So why not visit Almeria Spain during your trip to Spain?

Here are some ways to weave Almeria Spain into your Spain travel itinerary

There are several ways to make Almería a part of your Spain travel itinerary during a short trip to Spain

1. Spend the entire time in Almeria . This is a great option for those who really want to explore the region in depth and love slow travel. Especially if this is not your first visit to Spain.

2. Plan a trip to Almería Spain as part of a full Andalucía Spain itinerary. If you are already in Andalucía, adding some time in Almería can easily be done. We can help you weave it in!

3. Spend part of your “tour of Spain travel itinerary” in Almeria. There are trains, busses, and flights to Almería city from Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia and other points in Andalucía. However, it is not a short trip nor is transportation to Almería regular.

These are just a few options and we’d love to help explore them all with you!

While there is some public transportation, especially between the cities, it is strongly recommended to have a car in Almeria for flexibility as well as for getting off the beaten path.

There are options too if you are car free. We work closely with Andalindalo Tours, who take our clients on private tours throughout the Almería. They can personalize a Cabo de Gata or Alpujarra Almeriense experience just for you. Additionally, with ample advanced notice, they can get you to Pulpí as well. Very useful for those without their own wheels who really want to explore Almería!

Need some more ideas? Looking for some personalized ideas for Andalucía (including Almeria Spain) in general?

Let us help you customize your dream Spain trip based on your unique interests and timeframe. 

We offer several levels of Spain traveling planning services. Spain Less Traveled can work with all different types of travelers and travel planners, from those who want our full support throughout the entire travel planning process to those who simply need to talk with a Spain destination specialist to assist with specific aspects of travel planning. 

You also might be interested in our other in depth guides by region.

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