Sephardic Spain
The best of Jewish Spain travel where history comes alive
Originally published July 21, 2020. Updated March 23rd 2024
All images are courtesy of the Spain Less Traveled team, unless otherwise stated.
Spain is home to a deeply rooted Jewish history, dating back to the 6th century BC. Sephardic Jews (sometimes referred to as Sephardi Judaism or Hispanic Judaism) lived on the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) up until the inquisition. Worldwide, many modern Jews have Sephardic roots.
While it is not the travel destination that usually comes to mind right away for Jewish history, travelers interested in Judaism should add Spain to their list of destinations.
Throughout the country, visitors can wander through old Juderías (Jewish neighborhoods), where Spanish Jews lived (somewhat) peacefully up until the inquisition in 1492, often side by side with the Moors (Muslims).
Although there are very few working synagogues like you will find in parts of Eastern and Central Europe, it is possible to visit remains of old synagogues, many of which became churches after the inquisition, all throughout Spain.
Travelers to Spain can also wander through Juderías in many places, making Spain the perfect destination to explore your Jewish or Sephardic heritage.
Spain Less Traveled’s passion for Spain’s rich Jewish history
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Where are the top cities for Jewish Spain travel?
Jewish history can be found all over Spain, sometimes in the least expected places.
Many of the best places for Jewish Spain travel are in Andalucía, the south of Spain.
However, there is Sephardic history all over Spain. First, we will list some of the best places for travelers interested in Jewish history in Andalucía. Then we will move on to more places, all over the country for Jewish Spain travel!
Sephardic Spain as seen in Andalucía, the inspiring south
Without a doubt, Andalucía is the best of Sephardic Spain, and very accessible to visitors. The cities of Córdoba and Seville make up the classic Sephardic heritage itinerary, mixed in with Granada since it’s a must-see city. But there is, even more, to discover in some of Andalucía’s small towns.
If you are interested in Sephardic Spain, Andalucía, absolutely needs to be on your Jewish Spain travel itinerary. And not only the highlights.
Make sure to spend ample time there to see some of the hidden gems in Southern Spain, including places with rich Jewish history
Córdoba: the cornerstone of Sephardic Spain
Cordoba has a rich Sephardic heritage and is arguably the best place to see Sephardic Spain come alive. There are many things to do in Cordoba Spain that bring the city’s Jewish history to life. Although many cities in Spain once had a large Jewish population, the history of Jews in Spain is accessible to visitors in Cordoba.
All of the sites are in the Judería, or old Jewish neighborhood, in very close proximity to the Mezquita. This was a time when the Jews and Muslims lived in relative harmony. Wander the narrow alleyways, which are usually so alive and colorful with Cordoba’s signature flowers adorning them.
You will not want to miss the old synagogue, in mudéjar-style architecture but with Hebrew writing.
Torah scholar and philosopher, Moses ben Maimon, commonly known as Maimonides, was from Cordoba. You can find a statue dedicated to him in the middle of the small plaza named for him, Plaza Maimonides, pictured above).
Finally, to try some traditional Sephardic food, Casa Mazal restaurant cooks up delicious traditional Spanish Jewish food, one of the most underrepresented culinary traditions of Spain.
Lucena: a Sephardic heritage day trip from Córdoba
Just south of Córdoba, Lucena’s Jewish history dates back to the 11th century. Founded by the Jews during the time the Moors ruled Spain, Lucena was said to have had an entirely Jewish population, making it very unique. Eventually, the Moors came to Lucena too, where they lived side by side with the Jews until the Inquisition.
Recently, in 2006, during a routine construction project, a Jewish necropolis was unearthed. It is possible to see some of the ruins uncovered.
Today you can still wander through Barrio de Santiago, which many believe to be the Judería. La Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol (the Parish of Santiago) was most likely the city’s main synagogue, but there were probably several.
For those interested in Sephardic Spain already traveling to Córdoba, a day trip to Lucena is a great option.
Sevilla: Quintessential Andalucía
Andalucía’s largest city Seville has a wealth of Sephardic heritage. The first Jews arrived here in the 6th century BC, so there is a lot of history.
From trouble with the Visigoths to returning to Seville living (somewhat) peacefully with the Moors up until about 100 years before the inquisition. In 1391, the Judería was attacked and nearly 4,000 of Sevilla’s Jewish population was killed.
Barrio Santa Cruz, which is popular with visitors to Seville today, for its quaint streets and proximity to the cathedral and Alcazar, was the Judería. And it is the largest Judería on the Iberian peninsula.
There are not as many marked and accessible remnants of Sephardic Spain in Seville as there are in other places such as Córdoba. It is said that the present-day church of Santa Maria de la Blanca was the site of Seville’s largest synagogue.
The Centro de Interpretacion Judería offers guided walking tours of the Judería. The center is open to the public and also has exhibits and information about Jewish Seville.
Today Seville has a small Jewish population, mostly consisting of Jews who immigrated from Morocco. Without a doubt, Seville should be included on your Jewish Spain travel itinerary.
Úbeda: an accidental discovery
A small town in Jaén province, Úbeda is known for its Renaissance architecture and olive oil (as the entire province is). Here the synagogue was discovered on accident during a routine construction project. When the Jewish baths (Mikveh) were unearthed, the new building project (tourist apartments) was abandoned to preserve the synagogue.
Sinagoga del Agua is said to be one of the oldest synagogues in Spain and can be visited today (advanced reservations are required). And it is also one of Spain’s most impressive. The synagogue almost like a museum, housing many of the artifacts that were found.
While not much else remains in Úbeda’s Judería, a visit to the synagogue is well worth the detour for travelers interested in Sephardic Spain.
Hidden Sephardic Spain in Granada
Most travelers to Spain visit Granada as a visit to the Moorish gem, the Alhambra is one of the highlights of Spain. While there was a large Jewish population here up until the inquisition, there are very few Jewish sights remaining. Even the Alhambra has some Jewish history!
For those interested in Jewish history, who find themselves in Granada, head to Barrio Realejo, the old Jewish quarter. There are small clues, but not many any more.
There is also a really small Sephardi Museum of Granada however it is no longer open. But from time to time, they host special events pertaining to Granada’s Sephardic heritage, in Spanish.
Unfortunately there is little evidence of Sephardic Spain in Granada today.
(Check out our guide for our top 10 things to do in Granada Spain too!)
Málaga: a few small sites for Jewish Spain travel
While not often top of the list for Sephardic heritage, many travelers to Andalucía use Málaga as a jumping-off point.
And in Málaga city’s historic center, within the shadows of the mighty Alcazaba and castle, is a small Judería that is worth checking out if you find yourself in Málaga.
While not much remains, there is a statue of Jewish-thinker Solomón Ben Gabirol, who was born in Málaga.
To find the statue head to El Pimpi Restaurant, and you will see it in the grassy patch right by the terraza (outdoor seating).
There are also plans for a Sephardic Cultural Center in the Judería, but with no opening date at this time.
(Make sure to check out our guide for Málaga Spain off the beaten path for more suggestions on what to see and do in Málaga city and province.)
Sephardic Spain outside of Andalucía
There are several places where Sephardic Spain comes alive outside of the South of Spain. Here are some of the best places for travelers interested in Sephardic Heritage in other parts of the country.
Toledo: ancient Sephardic history
Toledo, in Castilla-La Mancha is said to be one of the oldest settlements of Spanish Jews.
In fact, it was sometimes referred to as the “Jerusalem of the west.”
For those interested in Sephardic Spain, who aren’t going to Andalucía, Toledo is a great bet.
It’s one of the best day trips from Madrid, since it’s so close to the capital.
Travelers to Toledo can visit two synagogues: Synagogue El Tránsito and the Synagogue of Santa Maria La Blanca. The former houses a small Sephardic museum and the later has some of Spain’s most beautiful Mudéjar arches.
The Judería here is well marked. We can also help you hire a private guide for a private Jewish tour of Toledo.
Jewish Spain travel in Segovia
Another day trip possibility from Madrid, Segovia (in Castilla Y León) is best known for its impressive Roman aqueduct.
While the Jewish sites here are less prominent than in Toledo, Segovia also has a Judería.
Iglesia del Corpus Christi used to be the old main synagogue of Segovia. Today, like so many other synagogues, it is a Catholic church. Nearby, in the small Judería, there is a visitors’ center with more information and history.
Finally, be sure to have a glance at Puerto de San Andres the city’s medieval walls where you can get a great view of the old Jewish cemetery. You can visit the cemetery as well.
Cataluña: Jewish Spain travel Barcelona and Girona
It is commonly believed that Barcelona had a rich Jewish past.
The city was once home to four synagogues. Here the Judería is called El Call, and there are still Hebrew letters on some of the neighborhood’s buildings. Part of the famous Gothic Quarter, the main synagogue in El Call is said to be one of Europe’s oldest. It has since been restored and is now open for visitors.
One of Catalonia’s most popular sites, Montjuic, translates to Jewish mountain. You can take a cable car to the top to enjoy the views of the city.
Here are even more hidden treasures in Barcelona.
Girona, a great day trip from Barcelona, has one of the best preserved Jewish quarters in all of Spain.
Legend has it that some of the families expelled in 1492 boarded up their homes (with brick) believing they would return one day (see the section about keys below too). The Catholics did not want to unearth these homes, out of fear that the authorities might mistake them for being Jewish and expel them too.
In the heart of the Judería is a new Sephardic heritage cultural site which recreates Sephardic Spain through art, music, and gastronomical events. This was where the synagogue once was. Today there is even a Catalan Museum of Jewish Culture containing a library with many medieval Jewish manuscripts.
A beautiful small city, Girona is a must for travelers wishing to explore Jewish Spain.
Zaragoza: the center of Sephardic Heritage in Aragón
The Aragón region had a strong Jewish past, and Zaragoza, the largest city in the area, was where it was all centered.
Here there wasn’t only one Judería, but there were two: an old one and a “new” one.
The old Jewish quarter was housed within the city’s Roman walls, and the new one was just outside of the walls. The Jewish and Christian areas were once separated by gates, in the historic center.
While very little remains, like most of Spain, there is strong evidence that there was once a Jewish hospital, a Kosher butcher, as well as many synagogues. If you are looking for Jewish influenced Reinsurance architecture, head to the Patio de la Infanta, a courtyard that was once owned by a well-known Jewish banker.
Hervás: Jewish Spain travel off the beaten path Extremadura
Very few travelers from abroad make it to Extremadura, far western Spain. It’s a pity, because this wild and pure Spanish region really has so much to offer. From the beautiful small pueblos to the region’s cities, you can find so much evidence of Roman, Moorish, and even yes, even Jewish history. Spain’s endless sky is in abundance here.
Many of Extremadura’s towns and cities have a Judería, but the old Jewish quarter in Hervás is is on of the best preserved in all of Spain.
The Jews only lived here for a short amount of time time, arriving in the early 1400s and later being expelled in 1492. However, the history is very much alive. Strolling through the Judería you will notice several Stars of David. There is also a working Sephardic bakery.
The synagogue no longer stands, but for those interested in seeing where it was, just have a walk down Calle Sinagoga.
Extremadura is truly Spain off the beaten path, Hervás is hard to reach on public transportation. Nor is English is widely spoken. But travelers who do venture out to Extremadura always rave about it. And visitors interested in Sephardic Spain will find Juderías in unexpected places.
Lorca: Lone Sephardic Spain in Murcia
There is evidence of a strong Jewish presence in Lorca, in the Murcia region.
During the construction of the Lorca Parador (which is built next to the the old castle), the remains of the only known synagogue in Murcia were discovered accidentally, very similar to how the synagogue in Úbeda was unearthed.
The Lorca synagogue is unique as it is one of the only synagogues in Spain that was not repurposed as a Catholic church after the inquisition.
Travelers can visit the Judería, which is very close to the impressive castle in Lorca. The synagogue is fairly well-preserved and can be visited too, and is the only one in the Murcia region.
Mallorca: Where Spain’s converted Jews reclaimed their heritage
The island of Mallorca also has a rich Jewish history. During the medieval period, Mallorca served as a haven for Jews fleeing persecution on the Iberian Peninsula. The Jewish population on the island grew, establishing synagogues, schools, and businesses that enriched Mallorcan society.
During the Spanish Inquisition, Jews were forced to either convert to Christianity or leave Mallorca. Most chose to leave, resulting in a decline of the Jewish community on the island. But there were plenty who stayed and converted. Today, there is a population of “Xuetes,” who live in Mallorca. They descendants of forcibly converted Jews who have reclaimed their Sephardic customs.
The story of the keys: hoping to return one day
Not only did the Jews of Girona seal their homes with bricks, when expelled hoping to return. But many Jewish families all over Spain kept their house keys in hopes of doing the same.
This is why you will see keys and emblems of keys throughout many Juderías in Spain.
Many of these families have passed this these treasured house keys down generation by generation. Even today, there are still families with Jewish roots all over Spain who have their ancestors house keys. These keys no longer unlock the doors to their homes, but what they symbolized is treasured.
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