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Zaragoza Spain Travel Guide: its many names and faces

Originally published 21 March 2024 by Carlos Casuso

All images are courtesy of the Spain Less Traveled team unless otherwise stated.

The many towers and domes of Zaragoza.

Many travelers visiting Spain just pass through Zaragoza. When taking the high-speed train from Madrid to Barcelona, it will probably make a short stop in Zaragoza, the mid-point of the journey. But few leave the train or the bus and wander into this great city. And that is a pity! Because those who do will find a vibrant and fun city, with very friendly “maños” (nickname of Zaragoza’s locals).

Here are just a few of the Spain Less Traveled team’s favorite reasons to visit Zaragoza (and not just pass through).

And of course, we would love to help plan your dream trip to Spain!

Where is Zaragoza Spain?

(Map courtesy of Vectorstock)

Zaragoza is the capital of the province with the same name, and of the full Aragon region (one of the original kingdoms that formed Spain). It’s not just the middle point between Madrid and Barcelona, but also between Barcelona, Catalonia and the Basque Country, and between the Basque Country, Northern Spain and Valencia. So it’s the ultimate crossroad of Spain.

(The other two provinces in Aragon are also worth visit: Huesca, with the mighty Pyrenees, and Teruel, with some of the most beautiful “pueblos” in Spain)

What things should I visit or do in Zaragoza?

With a population of almost 700,000 people, Zaragoza is the 5th largest city in Spain. And it’s not just large, it’s also one of the oldest cities in the country, with remains found from the 7th century BC.

With all that, Zaragoza is full or history, art, activity and fun, and can become part of your Spain travel itinerary.

Here are the most important things we think you should visit and do in Zaragoza, Spain!

“La Pilarica”, Mother of Spain.

Basilica of Our Lady of “El Pilar” dominates the equally named plaza, the heart of the city.

The heart of Zaragoza is Plaza del Pilar. With 24,000 sq mt, it’s the largest square in the city (and Spain’s 8th largest), and it’s hectic with activity all day. You can find several churches, the city hall, monuments, Roman and Arab ruins, and one of the most impressive churches in the country: Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. (Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar).

Tradition says that after Jesus Christ’s death, the apostle James the Great (Santiago) went to spread the gospel in Roman Hispania (current Spain). He faced many difficulties and distress, and while resting in the banks of the river Ebro, the Virgin Mary (who was still alive by then) appeared miraculously on top of a pillar to comfort him. The story started to attract pilgrims from all over the country and a small church was built on the place. The present massive cathedral was built in the 17th century, to replace the gothic church that was burnt in 1434. It’s a masterpiece of Spanish baroque architecture, and one of the largest cathedrals in Spain.

The interior is vast and not directional like most churches. It feels more like a huge hall full of art treasures, including the exquisite Renaissance altar in alabaster, and frescoes painted by Goya (more about him later). In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, the square was bombed. Two bombs fell down inside the church but didn’t explode, and you can see them on display.

“La Pilarica” (local nickname for Our Lady of the Pillar) is celebrated on October 12th, which is also the day of Columbus’ arrival in America. So her day has become also Spain’s National Day. The celebrations in Zaragoza are spectacular. A huge structure in the shape of a pyramid is built in the center of the square, with the statuette of the Virgin on top. Thousands of people dressed in traditional costumes bring flowers that end up covering the full structure. The record of participants is of 450,000 people.

The mighty Caesaraugusta

The ruins of the Roman theater.

Caesaraugusta (from where the name Zaragoza is derived) was one of the most important cities in Roman Hispania. It was founded in 14 BC, as a strategic river port, next to an existing Iberian village (Salduie). The name came from the ruling emperor Caesar Augustus. In the following centuries, the city grew and prospered, with the construction of many docks, temples, theaters and markets.

You can see the ruins and remains of many of those buildings in the modern Zaragoza. These are the most important:

  • Romans walls: The best preserved part is an 80 meter long section located in the northwestern part of Plaza del Pilar.

  • Forum: In the eastern part of the plaza you will see a modern building in the shape of a cube, covered with alabaster panels. It’s the entrance to the ruins of the Roman forum. It’s a very interesting exhibition, where the ruins of the old market are complemented with reconstructions and video projections.

  • River port: Walking toward the river, you’ll find the entrance to “Museo del Puerto Fluvial” (River Port Museum) where you’ll see the remains of the different activities held in the port (including fish salting, ceramics, ect.)

  • Thermae: Farther into the city center, under a modern building, you can see this small museum with the remains of one of the bassins of the Roman thermae or spa.

  • Theater: The most impressive Roman ruins in the city are those of the theater. Protected by a huge modern roof, you can appreciate the steps and stalls, as well as part of the scene. Even though it’s big, it’s a bit difficult to find. Google maps can be very helpful for finding it.

You can visit all these five momuments with a single ticket, that costs 5.50 euros and can be bought at any of the monuments.

Saraqusta and its castle

The solid exterior of “La Aljafería” palace.

In the year 714, the city was conquered by muslim armies, that adapt the name of the city to Saraqusta. For over 400 years, Saraqusta would become one of the most important cities in Muslim Spain. In the late 11th century, the city and its surroundings had become a “taifa”, an independent kingdom integrated in the caliphate of Córdoba. Under the rule of Áhmad al-Muqtádir, the city would flourish, becoming a center not only of power, but of art, culture and science.

He also built “La Aljafería”, a spectacular fortress in the border of the city (it was originally intended as a leisure palace). The imposing and sturdy exterior contrasts with the exquisite decoration of its interior halls, courtyards and gardens. Today, part of the building houses the Parliament of Aragón, but you can visit the other part, where the best rooms are located.

If you want to visit the castle, we strongly recommend that you book your tickets in advance in the official website.

Tickets do sell out, even in the winter months. Really a must when visiting the city, especially if you are interested in Spain’s Moorish architecture.

Mudéjar, the (kinda) unknown architectural style

The exquisite “Mudéjar” façade of La Seo

In 1118, Christian troops led by King Alfonso I of Aragón, sieged and conquered the city, ending the Muslim rule. The city was renamed to Saragoça, closer to the present name. A lot of people fled the city, but also many stayed, converting to catholicism. Muslim artists and artisans continued working, adapting their styles to the new faith. And that was the birth of “mudéjar”, the new old art. One of the best places to appreciate it is in Aragón, especially in Teruel and Zaragoza. (The mudéjar architecture of Aragón was incorporated by UNESCO to the World’s Heritage list in 1986).

The main characteristic of mudéjar is the elaborate decoration of the façades and towers, using mostly bricks and colored tiles. The geometries are incredible and intricate, making the walls flourish to life.

These are the best examples of mudéjar architecture in the city:

  • Palacio de La Aljafería (see above)

  • Cathedral of El Salvador (La Seo). Located at the eastern end of Plaza del Pilar, it’s an amazing building where the exquisite mudéjar façade contrast with the impressove Gothic interior. It’s not very crowded, but you can book tickets online here. You might need to follow the links to find the ticket that works best for you. There is a combined ticket for 10 euros that includes the Seo, the elevator ride to the top of one of El Pilar towers, and a couple of museums.

  • Church of San Pablo. The main mudéjar element is its elegant and slender bell tower.

Those wonderful patios

“Patio de La Infanta”, a gorgeous Renaissance jewel recovered from Paris.

When it comes to patios, Córdoba is not the only city famous for them.

In the 16th century, Zaragoza was a rich and prosperous city, with a population over 25,000. The rich merchants of the city showed their wealth in magnificent palaces in the Renaissance style. Those palaces used to have simple and solid façades, and the interior rooms were organized around exquisite courtyards. Many of them have survived until today, and you can visit some:

  • La Lonja. This magnificent building in Plaza del Pilar is used for temporary exhibitions that you can access for free. it doesn’t have a patio, but the interior is spectacular. You can check their current exhibitions and activites here.

  • Palace of the Counts of Argillo. Located in a charming plaza, this palace now houses a museum dedicated to local modern sculptor Pablo Gargallo. The beautiful patio full of modern sculptures is a very special palce in the city. More info about the museum here.

  • Palace of the Marquis of Montemuzo. You can visit the narrow but exquisite patio of this palace for free, as part of a small printing museum.

  • Patio de la Infanta. The most beautiful patio in Zaragoza is not in a palace, but in a modern bank. The palace that housed it burnt down several times, and in 1903, the surviving patio was sold to a French antiquarian that moved it to Paris for his shop. In 1957, the patio was bought back by local bank Ibercaja, and from 1980 it was placed inside the bank’s central office, in the modern part of the city. You can visit it in its former splendor, with a beautiful collection of tapestries.

Goya, the most famous “aragonés”

Monument to Goya in Plaza del Pilar, with the Lonja at the back.

Francisco de Goya y Lucientes was born in Fuendetodos, a small town south of Zaragoza. He was one of the most important Spanish painters and you can appreciate his best work in Madrid’s Prado Museum.

But you can feel his presence all around Zaragoza. For instance, there is a monument dedicated to him in Plaza del Pilar. (By now you must be wondering how many things Plaza del Pilar can fit inside… Trust me, there’s room for more). It’s a beautiful momument, with some statues of “majas” and “majos” around contemplating him.

And of course there is a Goya Museum, located in another Renaissance palace (and of course with a gorgeous patio too). In the museum you can see some of his early oil paintings, some studies for his major works, and the full collection of his engravings. it’s a popular museum, so it’s better if you book your tickets in advance.

There are other Goya paintings displayed in Museo de Zaragoza, but it’s currently closed for renovation. And of course his already mentioned frescoes in Basílica del Pilar.

A walk by the Ebro river

Ebro is the most important river in Spain, and is always associated with Zaragoza

If not the longest river in Spain (that’s the Tagus), Ebro river is the most important river in Spain. It starts in the mountains of Cantabria, and flows though many important cities like Haro and Logroño (in La Rioja) and, Tudela. Finally, it arrives to the Mediterranean Sea through a beautiful delta in Tarragona.

But the city most associated with the Ebro river is Zaragoza. There are many promenades that you can walk along, in both banks of the river. The south bank, where the old city is, and the north bank, full of modern suburbs. Curiously, there are no boats to navigate the river. The currents are usually very strong, making it difficult for ships to go against them.

In 2008, Zaragoza celebrated an international exhibition dedicated to the water. The Expo 2008 grounds were of course located next to the river. Most of the buildings remain including an aquarium, courthouses, office buildings and a conventions hall. The entrance was a spectacular bridge pavilion designed by late architect Zaha Hadid, currently used as a mobility museum.

Tapas “por un tubo”

Zaragoza has one of the largest tapas scenes in Spain

Of the many tapas crawl areas over Spain, one of the most famous is “El Tubo” in Zaragoza. it’s an area located south of Plaza del Pilar, around Plaza de España and El Coso. It’s a myriad of small narrow streets, that get really crowded at nights. it’s noisy, busy, uncomfortable but super fun. Groups of friends go to one place to another, tasting every bar’s specialty.

The official “tubo” street is Calle Estábanes, but the name is given to other streets in the area, such as Calle Mártires or Calle Cuatro de Agosto.

Some of the delicacies you can taste there include some of the best foods in Spain like Bocadillo de calamares (calamari sandwich, like the ones in Madrid), croquetas de jamón o de vinagrillos (ham or anchovy croquettes), jamón batido (a paste made with chopped Teruel ham and mayonnaise, and spread on bread), Guardia civil (a small sandwich with salted sardines, red pepper and tomato), or huevos con bechamel (like a big croquette with a hard-boiled egg inside). Champiñones al ajillo and tortilla de patatas are as popular here as in every Spanish city.

If you are further interested in food, why don’t you visit Mercado Central? it’s one of the most beautiful markets in Spain, with the right balance of food stalls and small restaurants. it’s been recently restored and it’s located, of course, next to Plaza del Pilar.

Bonus track: A very cool train station

Zaragoza Delicias is probably the most beautiful modern train station in Spain

Whether you are arriving in the city by train, or just passing through from Madrid to Barcelona, you can see one of the most beautiful train stations in the country. Designed by Catalan architect Carlos Ferrater, and opened in 2003 as part of the Madrid - Barcelona high - speed line, it surprises by its huge dimensions, and the use of natural light through its many triangular skylights.

Need help planning your dream trip to Zaragoza Spain?

We offer several levels of Spain traveling planning services. Spain Less Traveled can work with all different types of travelers and travel planners, from those who want our full support throughout the entire travel planning process to those who simply need to talk with a Spain destination specialist to assist with specific aspects of travel planning. 

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